How to Get Rid of Snakes Around Your Home (DIY Prevention Guide)

Of the roughly 50 snake species found around US homes, only 4 are venomous: rattlesnakes, copperheads, cottonmouths (water moccasins), and coral snakes. The rest — garter snakes, rat snakes, king snakes, black racers, etc. — are completely harmless and actively reduce rodent populations around your home.

Snakes end up near homes for two reasons:

• Food — Rodents, frogs, insects, and bird eggs. If you have mice in your garage, you may attract rat snakes. If you have a damp yard with lots of insects, you may see garter snakes.
• Shelter — Tall grass, brush piles, rock walls, firewood stacks, gaps under porches, and cool, damp areas under concrete slabs. Snakes need places to hide from predators and regulate their body temperature.

The strategy is simple: remove the food and the shelter, and snakes will move on. No snake wants to be near humans — they're there because the habitat is right.

• Lawn mower / string trimmer — Short grass is the single most effective snake deterrent.
• Hardware cloth (1/4 inch) or steel mesh — For sealing foundation gaps and vent covers.
• Caulk and expanding foam — For sealing small gaps in the foundation and around pipes.
• Door sweeps — For garage doors and exterior doors with gaps.
• Snake-proof fencing (optional) — 1/4-inch hardware cloth, 36 inches tall, buried 3-6 inches deep. Only practical for small areas like a garden or patio.
• Glue boards (for indoor snakes) — Only if a snake is found inside. Place along walls where the snake was seen.
• Rake and garden tools — For clearing debris and brush.

Step 1: Identify the Snake (If Possible)

Before doing anything, try to identify the snake species. Take a photo from a safe distance (6+ feet). Most US snakes are non-venomous. Quick ID tips:

• Venomous pit vipers (rattlesnakes, copperheads, cottonmouths) — Triangular/arrow-shaped head, thick body, vertical (cat-like) pupils, and heat-sensing pits between the eyes and nostrils. Rattlesnakes have rattles.
• Non-venomous snakes — Rounded head, slender body, round pupils. Most common yard snakes (garter snakes, rat snakes, racers) fit this description.
• Coral snakes — The exception. They're venomous but have a rounded head. Red, yellow, and black bands. "Red touches yellow, kill a fellow; red touches black, friend of Jack."

If you have a venomous snake near your home, skip the DIY and call animal control or a wildlife removal service. Do not attempt to catch or kill a venomous snake.

Step 2: Eliminate Habitat (The Most Important Step)

Snakes need cover to hide from predators (hawks, owls, coyotes). Remove the cover and they'll relocate:

• Mow the lawn regularly — Keep grass under 4 inches. Snakes avoid open, short-grass areas where they're exposed to predators.
• Remove brush piles, leaf piles, and yard debris — These are prime snake hiding spots.
• Stack firewood at least 20 feet from the house — Ideally on a rack elevated 12+ inches off the ground.
• Clear dense ground cover and overgrown shrubs near the foundation — Maintain at least a 24-inch clear zone between plantings and the house.
• Remove rock piles, old lumber, and scrap materials — Any ground-level clutter provides shelter.
• Trim low-hanging branches and dense vegetation — Climbing snakes (rat snakes) use overhanging vegetation to access roofs and upper floors.

Step 3: Address the Food Source

If snakes are hanging around, something is feeding them:

• Rodents — The most common reason snakes are near homes. Address mouse and rat problems (see our mouse guide and rat guide). Remove bird feeders that attract rodents. Secure garbage and pet food.
• Frogs and toads — If you have a damp yard with standing water, you'll attract frogs, which attract snakes. Fix drainage issues and eliminate standing water sources.
• Insects — Garter snakes eat slugs, worms, and insects. You won't eliminate all bugs, but reducing insect habitat (standing water, leaf litter, outdoor lights that attract insects) helps.

Step 4: Seal Your Home's Foundation

Prevent snakes from entering the house itself:

• Seal all foundation gaps larger than 1/4 inch — Caulk, expanding foam, or hardware cloth. Pay special attention to where pipes, conduits, and wires enter the foundation.
• Install door sweeps — Garage doors are the most common snake entry point into homes. Ensure the rubber seal at the bottom makes full contact with the ground across its entire width. Replace it if worn or cracked.
• Screen foundation vents — Cover crawl space vents with 1/4-inch hardware cloth.
• Seal gaps around basement windows — Use caulk or weatherstripping.
• Check where the siding meets the foundation — A common gap on many homes.

Step 5: Snake-Proof Fencing (For Small High-Value Areas)

Full-property snake fencing is usually impractical and expensive, but you can fence a small area like a children's play area, garden, or patio:

• Use 1/4-inch hardware cloth or solid metal flashing, 36 inches tall.
• Angle the top outward at 30 degrees so snakes can't climb over.
• Bury the bottom 3–6 inches underground.
• Ensure gates fit tightly with no gaps at ground level.

Step 6: Dealing with a Snake Inside Your Home

If a snake is already inside:

• Don't panic. Keep your distance and keep an eye on it. Most indoor snakes are non-venomous and got in accidentally.
• If non-venomous: Open a nearby exterior door and gently herd it out with a broom. Or place a large glue board along the wall where you saw it — check it frequently. Snakes caught on glue boards can be released by pouring vegetable oil on the glue.
• If venomous (or you're not sure): Leave the room, close the door, stuff a towel under the door, and call animal control or a wildlife removal service.

• Keep your yard mowed and tidy — This is the single most effective snake prevention measure. Short grass, no debris piles, no ground clutter. Snakes won't cross a large open area where they're exposed.
• Control rodents — Where there are mice, snakes will follow. If you solve your rodent problem, you'll solve most snake problems too.
• Eliminate standing water — Standing water attracts frogs, toads, and insects, all of which attract snakes. Fix drainage, empty containers, and keep gutters clean.
• Seal the foundation annually — Check for new gaps every spring as the ground thaws and the house settles.
• Keep chicken coops and pet enclosures secure — Snakes are attracted to eggs and small animals. Use 1/4-inch hardware cloth for any outdoor animal enclosures.

• Using snake repellents — Commercial snake repellents (naphthalene, sulfur, essential oils, etc.) have been extensively tested and none of them work reliably. University studies and the EPA have consistently found them ineffective. Don't waste your money. Habitat modification is the only proven approach.
• Killing non-venomous snakes — Garter snakes, rat snakes, and king snakes eat rodents, insects, and even venomous snakes. Killing them removes natural pest control and can actually increase your rodent problem. In some states, killing non-venomous snakes is also illegal.
• Trying to catch or kill venomous snakes — The majority of venomous snakebites occur when people try to handle or kill snakes. If you see a venomous snake, keep your distance and call animal control. Most venomous snakes will leave your property on their own within a few hours if left alone.
• Relying on fencing alone — Snake fencing works for small areas but is impractical and expensive for an entire property. It also does nothing about the food and shelter that attracted snakes in the first place. Habitat modification must come first.
• Ignoring the rodent problem — People spend time and money on snake prevention while ignoring the mice in their garage that are actually attracting the snakes. Fix the prey problem and the predator problem solves itself.