How to Get Rid of Pest Birds (DIY Deterrence & Exclusion Guide)

Before you do anything, you need to know this: most bird species in the United States are protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA). It is a federal crime to kill, trap, or destroy the nests and eggs of protected species without a permit. Fines can reach $15,000 per bird.

However, three bird species are not protected under the MBTA and can be legally deterred, excluded, or removed without a permit in most states:

• Rock pigeons (Columba livia) — The common city pigeon. They roost on ledges, under eaves, in attics, and on rooftops. Their acidic droppings damage paint, concrete, and metal. They carry ectoparasites (bird mites, lice) that can invade homes.
• European starlings (Sturnus vulgaris) — Glossy black birds that nest in vents, soffits, and any small cavity. They aggressively take over vent openings (bathroom, dryer, kitchen exhaust) and stuff them with nest material, which blocks airflow and creates fire hazards.
• House sparrows (Passer domesticus) — Small brown birds that nest in gaps in siding, eaves, signs, and equipment. Like starlings, they frequently nest in dryer and bathroom vents.

If you have a different species (robins, swallows, woodpeckers, hawks, etc.) nesting on or in your home, you generally cannot disturb an active nest. Wait until the nesting season is over, then install deterrents to prevent them from returning. Contact your state wildlife agency for guidance on specific species.

The strategy for pest birds combines three approaches: exclusion (physically blocking access), deterrence (making surfaces uncomfortable to land on), and habitat modification (removing food and water sources).

• Bird-proof vent covers — Metal vent covers with built-in screens or cages that allow airflow but prevent birds from entering. Available for dryer vents, bathroom exhaust vents, and kitchen range hood vents. Look for stainless steel or galvanized steel — plastic covers won't last.
• Bird spikes — Stainless steel or polycarbonate spikes that attach to ledges, sills, signs, and other flat roosting surfaces. They don't harm birds — they simply make it impossible to land. Available in different widths for different ledge sizes.
• Hardware cloth (1/2-inch galvanized) — For sealing larger openings like gable vents, open soffits, and gaps behind fascia boards.
• Caulk and expanding foam — For sealing small gaps (under 1 inch) in siding, soffits, and around vents.
• Screwdriver or drill with appropriate bits — For mounting vent covers and hardware cloth.
• Ladder (extension ladder for multi-story homes) — Most bird entry points are at the roofline.
• Adhesive or screws for bird spikes — Most spikes come with adhesive strips; screws provide a more permanent mount.
• Gloves and dust mask — Bird droppings and nest material can carry pathogens. Wear protection during cleanup.
• Trash bags — For disposing of old nest material.

Step 1: Identify the Problem Species and Entry Points

Walk around your home and identify:

• Active nests — Check dryer vents, bathroom exhaust vents, kitchen exhaust vents, gaps in soffits, open eaves, gaps behind fascia boards, and any opening larger than 1 inch. Starlings and sparrows can fit through surprisingly small gaps.
• Roosting ledges — Look for pigeon droppings on window sills, ledges, porch beams, rain gutters, AC units, and any flat horizontal surface. Accumulated droppings indicate regular roosting spots.
• Droppings concentration — Heavy droppings below a specific spot tell you exactly where birds are perching or nesting above.

Important: If you find an active nest with eggs or chicks of the three legal species (pigeons, starlings, house sparrows), you can remove it. For any other species, leave the nest alone until the chicks fledge (usually 2-4 weeks), then install deterrents immediately after.

Step 2: Install Bird-Proof Vent Covers

Vent openings are the most common bird entry point and the most dangerous — nesting material in dryer vents is a leading cause of house fires.

1. Turn off the dryer, exhaust fan, or range hood associated with the vent you're working on.
2. Remove the existing vent cover — Most are held in place by screws or friction-fit into the vent pipe. Pull out any nest material inside the vent duct. Use gloves and a dust mask.
3. Clean the vent duct — For dryer vents, this is a good opportunity to clean lint buildup too. Use a dryer vent cleaning brush or vacuum.
4. Install the new bird-proof vent cover — These come in different styles: some are caged covers that mount over the existing opening, others replace the entire vent hood. Secure with screws into the siding or wall. Make sure the cover allows full airflow — restricted dryer vents are a fire hazard too.
5. Repeat for every exterior vent — Don't skip any. If you protect three vents and leave one exposed, birds will find it.

Step 3: Seal Other Entry Points

After vents, address every other potential entry point:

• Gaps in soffits and eaves — Use 1/2-inch hardware cloth screwed over the opening, or seal with expanding foam for gaps under 1 inch.
• Open gable vents — Install hardware cloth behind the decorative vent cover.
• Gaps behind fascia boards — Where the fascia has pulled away from the roof decking, birds can access the space behind it. Reattach the fascia or cover the gap with hardware cloth.
• Gaps where different building materials meet — Siding-to-brick transitions, chimney-to-roof junctions, and dormers often have gaps large enough for sparrows and starlings.
• Open pipes or conduits — Cap any open pipes or cover with hardware cloth.

Step 4: Install Bird Spikes on Roosting Surfaces

For pigeons roosting on ledges, window sills, porch beams, gutters, or signs:

1. Clean the surface thoroughly — Remove all droppings with a scraper, then wash with a disinfectant solution (10% bleach or a commercial bird dropping cleaner). Wear gloves and a dust mask. Dried pigeon droppings can contain Cryptococcus neoformans fungal spores.
2. Dry the surface completely — Adhesive won't bond to wet or dirty surfaces.
3. Apply bird spikes — Most spikes come in 1-foot sections with adhesive backing. For a stronger hold (especially on exterior surfaces exposed to weather), use construction adhesive (like Liquid Nails) or drill and screw the spike bases to the surface. Cover the entire ledge — if you leave even a 6-inch gap, pigeons will squeeze into it.
4. For wider ledges — Install multiple rows of spikes. Standard spikes cover about 3-5 inches of width. A wide window sill may need 2-3 rows.

Step 5: Remove Food and Water Sources

Deterrents work best when combined with removing the reasons birds are attracted to your property:

• Don't feed birds near the house — Move bird feeders at least 30 feet from the structure, or remove them entirely if pigeons or sparrows are the problem. Pigeons especially are drawn to scattered seed.
• Secure garbage — Use trash cans with tight-fitting lids. Pigeons and starlings feed on garbage.
• Remove standing water — Bird baths, clogged gutters, and water-collecting containers attract birds. If you want to keep a bird bath, place it far from the house.
• Clean up pet food — Don't leave pet food bowls outside. Sparrows and starlings feed readily on dog and cat food.
• Address fruit and berry trees — If fruit trees near your house attract birds, consider netting the trees or harvesting fruit promptly.

Step 6: Visual Deterrents (Limited Effectiveness)

Visual deterrents like reflective tape, owl decoys, and predator eye balloons have very limited effectiveness and should be considered temporary measures at best:

• Reflective scare tape — Mildly effective for a few weeks. Birds habituate to it quickly.
• Owl and hawk decoys — May work for a few days. Move them frequently (every 2-3 days) or birds will ignore them. Some models with moving heads are slightly more effective.
• Predator eye balloons — Similar to decoys — short-term effect only.

Do NOT rely on visual deterrents as your primary strategy. Physical exclusion (vent covers, sealing gaps) and spikes are far more effective and permanent.

• Inspect vent covers annually — Check all exterior vent covers in early spring (before nesting season, which typically starts in March). Replace any that are damaged, loose, or missing screens.
• Walk the roofline in early spring — Before birds start nesting, inspect soffits, eaves, fascia, and gable vents for new gaps. Repair them before birds discover them. Once a bird has nested in a spot, it will return year after year.
• Clean droppings promptly — Bird droppings attract more birds. The presence of droppings signals "this is a safe roosting spot" to other birds. Regular cleaning discourages new arrivals.
• Maintain bird spike installations — Check spikes periodically for damage or debris accumulation. Pigeons will sometimes pile nest material on top of spikes if they're desperate enough — remove it promptly.
• Screen chimney tops — A chimney cap with wire mesh prevents birds (and bats, raccoons, and squirrels) from nesting in your chimney. Use 1/2-inch mesh.
• Trim overhanging tree branches — Branches that touch or overhang your roof give birds easy access to your roofline. Maintain a 6-foot clearance between trees and the house.

• Deterring protected species without a permit — If you're not sure whether the bird is a pigeon, starling, or house sparrow, don't touch the nest. Accidentally destroying the nest of a protected species like a barn swallow or Carolina wren can result in federal fines. When in doubt, photograph the bird and nest and contact your state wildlife agency for identification.
• Using only visual deterrents — Reflective tape, owl decoys, and predator balloons are temporary at best. Birds habituate to them within days to weeks. Physical barriers (spikes, vent covers, sealed gaps) are the only reliable long-term solution.
• Sealing a vent with birds still inside — If you seal a vent while birds or chicks are inside, they'll die in the duct — creating an odor problem, attracting insects, and potentially blocking airflow. Always confirm the vent is empty before sealing. If there are chicks, wait until they fledge (2-3 weeks for most species), then seal immediately.
• Leaving gaps in bird spike coverage — Pigeons are incredibly persistent. If you spike 90% of a ledge and leave a 6-inch gap, they'll land in that gap. Coverage must be complete — every inch of every roosting surface.
• Using bird netting incorrectly — Bird netting can be effective for large areas (under eaves, over loading docks) but must be installed tightly with no gaps or sagging. Loose netting can entangle and kill birds, creating a legal issue even for non-protected species.
• Ignoring the food source — If you install spikes and vent covers but continue scattering birdseed 10 feet from the house, you're fighting an uphill battle. Remove the attraction and the deterrents work much better.